

Map (detail) of Percent Soil Clay for California, USA
Soil Survey Geographic Database (SSURGO), DataBasin.org
Cross-section of clay soil, Krish Dulal, CC BY-SA 3.0,
'C' is for Clay
text and images by Valerie Constantino
(unless otherwise noted)
Recalled from long-ago childhood exploits, that free-associative playtime material we referred to as clay was, after all, a remarkably protean substance. It may well have been the very first material through which my imaginative instincts coalesced. Those particular slabs from which I’d shaped many a worm and other more advanced life forms had clearly not been extracted from the earth. Rather, that substance came wrapped in cellophane in a spectrum of human-generated colors and left its oily residue in just those colors upon small, nimble hands.
As an artist working primarily with textiles and malleable materials, generally, I’ve since handled an array of both manufactured and naturally derived substances. The distinctions between synthetic clays, such as that entry-level stuff, modern polymers, and clays of the earth, are now recognizable. This project, 'C' is for Clay, evolved in conjunction with my ongoing work with a group of creatives investigating the properties and conditions of soil through the medium of buried textiles. This writing and its attendant textile work examine the literal ramifications and metaphorical resonances of the clay-rich soil common to my immediate surroundings in Northern California.
Clays of red, brown, green, gray, and ivory earth tones have been mined and manipulated by humans since the Upper Paleolithic Age. Given its compatibility with water, clay can be mixed into broad consistencies of slurries and muds, then shaped and dried into an endless output of solid forms. The term clay refers to substances of the earth with similar chemical and mineral compositions of varied yet limited particle sizes of less than two micrometers.(1) It occurs when rock formations are fractured by wind, rain, animal activity, and, most commonly today, chemical weathering caused by leached corrosives in the earth’s uppermost layers. Escalating atmospheric carbon levels caused by the warmer temperatures of climate change contribute as well to this process of chemical weathering.(2)
Essentially, soil is an amalgam of sand, silt, heterogeneous organic matter, and clay. Soils of roughly forty percent clay are considered clay-rich and are characterized by slow drainage, high compactibility, reduced aeration, and delayed seasonal warming.(3) At the same time, mineral components in clay soils, such as talc, mica, and quartz, enable the growth of flora and fauna microhabitats within their crystalline structures, augmenting their porosity and complexity.(4)
The buried textile project references the corporeal susceptibility of fiber and cloth while highlighting the criticality of soil. The eclectic poetics of textile embodies the material nature of life on earth. Its essential properties, its absorbency, malleability, and protectiveness, are like our own skin, encasing and reflecting our interiority, our systemic and microbial well-being, and our substantive histories. Soil too is such a revelatory sheath regarding all that lies beneath the surface of the earth. Its health is largely determined by its microbial biomass, as its properties reveal the past and present-day materiality of the earth to its core. The process of burying and exhuming our textiles, our dishcloths, table and bed linens, articles of clothing, and so on, brackets the significance of our particular wraps and covers, and the layered soils upon which our lives depend.

C is for Clay
Left: Monogrammed cotton handkerchief with added stitching, folded into suit jacket vest pocket.
Right: Handkerchief post burial, exhumation and unfolding.
After my father, Anthony Constantino, died, I retained a carefully curated selection of his personal effects, taking note of my interest in and ways of interacting with each item. Brand-new-in-their-boxes as well as used handkerchiefs were included in this collection, and throughout the years I’ve used them to clear my nose just as my father had done. The textile component of C is for Clay began with one so-utilized and routinely laundered monogrammed handkerchief. Having embroidered the words is for clay beneath the pre-stitched C, I ironed the handkerchief into a straightforward presidential fold. I placed it then into the vest pocket of a formal suit jacket and photographed it. Maintaining the fold, I buried the handkerchief in my backyard and, after two months, exhumed it, opened the fold, and photographed it again. Those two photographic images are shown here, juxtaposed.
That I investigated that specific fold, the presidential fold, at this point in time was striking. This handkerchief fold is a common one and has been described on at least one site devoted to gentlemanly attire as conveying an air of simple elegance, a must for the ‘Don Drapers’ and ‘James Bonds’ of the world.(5) My project began and was carried out during the run-up to the 2024 United States presidential election, and this writing has continued since its results. Now only, I cannot separate the disparity of this political moment from the history and politics of humanity’s relationship with the earth’s ecosystems. That simple elegance of that alpha persona has the propensity to advance a class-divisive, vainglorious notion in relation to other living entities: that all others are of lesser bearing, without autonomous boundaries. From within that worldview, biased contaminations, depletions, and obliterations of other humans, species, and earthly elements, its waters, atmospheres, and lands, may be perpetrated and justified. In contrast to these insensibilities, there are legions of empathetic citizens across all social and cultural sectors, dedicated to the earth’s conservation, for whom cooperation is key.
As for agricultural and horticultural undertakings in clay soil country, our favorable results depend upon continual interventions by farmers and gardeners. One widespread practice involves blanketing the ground with either bark, manure, leafy mold, organic compost, or any combination thereof. This helps warm the soil and increase its aeration. It also encourages the growth of microflora and microfauna that transform the organic matter into soil nutrients through their metabolic activities. Such conservation efforts, however, must be measured, monitored, and cyclical in order to balance their effects. An excess of organic matter, for example, can drive the rampant proliferation of
microorganisms that compete with plants for essential nutrients.(6)
The fierce winter rains of the region where I live tend to worsen the compaction of our clay soil. Concurrently, soil analysis indicates that it contains enough nutrients to accommodate substantial populations of microbes. And it is just this spirited microbial interaction with the variously aged and constituted secretions deposited by my father and me that recasts our handkerchief as the toadskin-like specimen that we now see. The hurdles and complexities of clay soil evidenced by this mottled remnant are indicative of our unpredictable partnership with beneficial and detrimental microbes. And it illustrates, too, the broad nature of all relationships, our desire to nurture and nudge, while restraining our inclination to control. The burying and exhumation of a textile allows me to—no, it insists that I read my relationship with soil and with cultural history writ globally. The process allegorizes the connection between finely interlaced, below-ground micro-communities and the vast and convoluted socio-economic networks of those who dwell above.
Soils defy modern dualisms… There is no final material erasure
of the past in the sedimented fabrics of their recycling bodies.(7)
So, C is for the clay that is present in greater or lesser percentages in the soils of myriad geologic environments around the world. Coincidentally, C is also the initial for Cosentino, the original patronymic of my Sicilian forebears, who worked and ultimately gave mortal way to their indigenous land—a clayey flysch, or type of rock that alternates clay with denser layers of sand and silt.(8) C is for our common earthly ground and for the ceaseless conservation efforts that require global cooperation and a collaborative mindset towards all beings and substances. As the earth’s uppermost stratum is a multiplex of weathered minerals and live and inert particulate matter, this clay is the swathe and mire that holds it all together. And it is as well, of what we are made and of what we shall become.
Notes
1. Nora K. Foley, “Environmental Characteristics of Clays and Clay Mineral Deposits”
2. National Center for Scientific Research, “The Role of Climate Change in Chemical Weathering of Rocks”
3. Katie Wagner, Michael Kuhns, and Grant Cardon, “Gardening in Clay Soils”
4. Cuadros, Javier, “Clay minerals interaction with microorganisms: a review”
5. ties.com
6. Kim Pokorny Linda Brewer, “Like Diamonds, Clay Soil is Forever”
7. Kristina Lyons, “The Poetics of Soil Health”
8. Andrew Smith, “Agriculture of Sicily: Notable crops and livestock produced on the island of Sicily”
References
Alluvial Soil Lab, “Soil Testing in Sacramento,” California, https://alluvialsoillab.com/blogs/soil-testing/soil-testing-in-sacrament, accessed 11/29/24
The American Ceramic Society, “A Brief History of Ceramics and Glass,” https://ceramics.org/about/what-are-ceramics/a-brief-history-of-ceramics-and-glass/, accessed 11/12/24
Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), “The weathering of rock and climate change,” phys.org, (2012, March), https://phys.org/news/2012-03-weathering-impacts-climate.html
Ditzler, Dr. Craig, “A Glossary of Terms Used in Soil Survey and Soil Classification Including Definitions and Brief Commentary,” US Department of Agriculture, Natural Resources Conservation Service, (January, 2017), https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/sites/default/files/2022-08/A_Glossary_of_Terms_Used_in_Soil_Survey_and_Classification.pdf
Cuadros, Javier, “How is Clay Formed,” Clayground Collective, http://www.claygroundcollective.org/how-is-clay-formed-is-it-inorganic-or-organic/, accessed 12/14/24
- “Clay minerals interaction with microorganisms: a review,” Clay Minerals, V. 52, 2, (June, 2017), pp. 235-261, DOI:10.1180/claymin.2017.052.2.05
Data Basin Maps, SSURGO (Soil Survey Geographic Database) Percent Soil Clay for California, USA Map, https://databasin.org/maps/new/#datasets=a0300bf9151e43a886b3b156f55f5c45, accessed 11/20/25
Foley, Nora K., “Environmental Characteristics of Clays and Clay Mineral Deposits,” US Geological Survey, (September, 1999), https://pubs.usgs.gov/info/clays/
Leach, Melissa and Green, Cathy, “Gender and Environmental History: From Representation of Women and Nature to Gender Analysis of Ecology and Politics,” Environment and History 3, no. 3, (October, 1997), pp. 343-70, http://www.environmentandsociety.org/node/2947
Lyons, Kristina, “The Poetics of Soil Health,” Platypus, The CASTAC Blog, (March, 2016), https://blog.castac.org/2016/03/poetics-of-soil-health/
National Center for Scientific Research, “The Role of Climate Change in Chemical Weathering of Rocks,”) SciTech Daily, (March, 2012), https://scitechdaily.com/the-role-of-climate-change-in-chemical-weathering-of-rocks/
Online Ties Apparel Australia, How to Fold a Presidential Fold, https://www.otaa.com/pages/how-to-fold-a-presidential-fold, accessed 10/20/24
Pokorny, Kim, and Brewer, Linda, “Like Diamonds, Clay Soil is Forever,”Oregon State University, Newsroom, (February, 2022) https://news.oregonstate.edu/news/diamonds-clay-soils-are-forever
Smith, Andrew, “Agriculture of Sicily: Notable crops and livestock produced on the island of Sicily,” Arcgis Storymaps, (September, 2022), https://storymaps.arcgis.com/stories/b3241e5c6b0c44e4809bd23b786fdfe6
Soumi, Mitra, “Chemical Weathering: Nature’s Incredible Power to Transform Landscapes,” Let’s Talk Geography, (June, 2024), https://letstalkgeography.com/chemical-weathering/
Ties.com, “How to Fold the Presidential Pocket Square,” https://www.ties.com/how-to-fold-a-pocket-square/presidential?srsltid=AfmBOookOfJP9JWng28L6oOtxsbMuQi2qk3BGRBpL-Got71jLqv7body, accessed 10/21/25
US Department of Agriculture, Natural Resources Conservation Service, “An Illustrated Guide to Soil Taxonomy,” (2015, September), https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/sites/default/files/2022-06/Illustrated_Guide_to_Soil_Taxonomy.pdf
- “Soil Health,” https://www.nrcs.usda.gov/conservation-basics/natural-resource-concerns/soils/soil-health, 12/27/24
US Department of Agriculture, “Sacramento Series,” (2018, March), https://soilseries.sc.egov.usda.gov/OSD_Docs/S/SACRAMENTO.html
Wagner, Katie, Kuhns, Michael, and Cardon, Grant, “Gardening in Clay Soils,” Utah State University, (June, 2015), https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/gardening-in-clay-soils
Zhang, Wei, “Why Gender Matters for Soil Health as Part of Sustainable Food Systems,” Agrilinks Team, (January, 2020), https://agrilinks.org/post/why-gender-matters-soil-health-part-sustainable-food-systems
Zurich, “Why soil is important to life on Earth – and helps fight climate change,” (November, 2024), https://www.zurich.com/media/magazine/2021/how-soil-supports-life-on-earth-and-could-help-win-the-fight-against-climate-change
Link to pdf